--- title: "Ranges" description: "JennAir ranges — thirty machines in the current line and the most expensive thing in most of these kitchens." url: "https://jennairmiami.support/appliances/range/" date_modified: "2026-08-24" Appliance type: "Ranges" --- # JennAir ranges ### What a professional-style range actually is Thirty machines in the current line, in three widths and three fuels: gas, dual-fuel — gas on top and electric in the ovens — and, newly, induction. A 30-inch range is one oven and four burners. A 48-inch is two ovens of different sizes, six burners, and usually a griddle or a grill let into the top between them. That matters when you call, because “the oven is not heating” on a 48-inch range means one of two ovens, and which one narrows the part before anybody drives anywhere. ### The failures we are called out for - **Ignition.** A burner that clicks without lighting, or lights and drops out. Sparks, sensing and gas are three different answers to one symptom. - **The simmer stage.** Specific to a dual-stacked burner: the low flame will not hold while the high one is perfect, or the reverse. - **The oven sensor.** The commonest reason an oven runs hot or cold while looking entirely healthy. A sensor is a cheap part and an accurate diagnosis. - **Bake and broil elements** on the electric side of a dual-fuel or induction machine, and the convection fan and its element behind the back wall. - **The door latch after a self-clean**, and the door hinges and springs on doors that are genuinely heavy. - **The griddle and grill zones**, which are separate circuits and separate repairs. - **Induction power boards and their cooling**, on machines built into cabinetry in a warm kitchen. ### The downdraft, which is this make’s own subject JennAir built the first downdraft range in 1965 — ventilation pulled down through the cooking surface instead of up into a hood — and there is still a downdraft electric range in the current line. Far more of them are in South Florida kitchens from the decades in between, along with the cartridge cooktops where a grill or griddle module lifts out and another drops in. A downdraft is a blower, a damper and a duct run under a floor or through a cabinet, and when it stops pulling, three quarters of the diagnosis is outside the range. ### What the warranty covers, in the maker’s own words The current major-appliance warranty is **two years from the date of delivery, parts and labor included** — not the one year that is usual on this kind of appliance. Worth checking your purchase date before paying for anything. ### What to have ready when you call The model number from the frame inside the oven door, which oven and which burner, and whether it is gas, dual-fuel or induction. A photograph of the plate is easier than reading it out. Professional-style · Dual-stacked burners · Induction · Slide-in · 30" · 36" · 48" Range repair A burner that clicks and will not light, or lights and will not hold The oven running hot, running cold, or not heating at all The door locked after a self-clean and staying locked What a professional-style range actually is Thirty machines in the current line, in three widths and three fuels: gas, dual-fuel — gas on top and electric in the ovens — and, newly, induction. A 30-inch range is one oven and four burners. A 48-inch is two ovens of different sizes, six burners, and usually a griddle or a grill let into the top between them. That matters when you call, because “the oven is not heating” on a 48-inch range means one of two ovens, and which one narrows the part before anybody drives anywhere. The failures we are called out for Ignition. A burner that clicks without lighting, or lights and drops out. Sparks, sensing and gas are three different answers to one symptom. The simmer stage. Specific to a dual-stacked burner: the low flame will not hold while the high one is perfect, or the reverse. The oven sensor. The commonest reason an oven runs hot or cold while looking entirely healthy. A sensor is a cheap part and an accurate diagnosis. Bake and broil elements on the electric side of a dual-fuel or induction machine, and the convection fan and its element behind the back wall. The door latch after a self-clean, and the door hinges and springs on doors that are genuinely heavy. The griddle and grill zones, which are separate circuits and separate repairs. Induction power boards and their cooling, on machines built into cabinetry in a warm kitchen. The downdraft, which is this make’s own subject JennAir built the first downdraft range in 1965 — ventilation pulled down through the cooking surface instead of up into a hood — and there is still a downdraft electric range in the current line. Far more of them are in South Florida kitchens from the decades in between, along with the cartridge cooktops where a grill or griddle module lifts out and another drops in. A downdraft is a blower, a damper and a duct run under a floor or through a cabinet, and when it stops pulling, three quarters of the diagnosis is outside the range. What the warranty covers, in the maker’s own words The current major-appliance warranty is two years from the date of delivery, parts and labor included — not the one year that is usual on this kind of appliance. Worth checking your purchase date before paying for anything. What to have ready when you call The model number from the frame inside the oven door, which oven and which burner, and whether it is gas, dual-fuel or induction. A photograph of the plate is easier than reading it out. ### What is a dual-stacked burner, and why does it change the repair? It is two rings of flame stacked one above the other under a single grate, so the burner can go from a hard sear down to a genuine simmer without a separate simmer plate. Practically, it means one burner position has two gas paths, two sets of ports and more to keep clean than a conventional burner has. When one of those two stages misbehaves — a strong flame that will not come down, or a simmer that will not stay lit — that is a very different diagnosis from a burner that is simply out, and it is worth saying which of the two you are seeing when you book. ### The burner clicks and clicks after it has already lit. Is that broken? Not necessarily. These burners use flame-sensing re-ignition, which means the range is watching for a flame and will spark again if it thinks the flame has gone. A pot boiling over, a draft from an open slider, or a burner cap sitting a fraction out of place will all make it re-spark. Take the pot off, let the burner cool, lift the cap and reseat it squarely. If it still clicks with a clean, dry, correctly seated cap and a steady flame, the sensing side needs looking at rather than the ignition side. ### Is a griddle or a grill in the top worth repairing on its own? Yes, and it usually is a repair on its own. On these ranges the griddle and the grill are separate heated zones with their own controls and their own sensors, sitting in the middle of a cooktop that is otherwise working perfectly. That is good news for the bill: the rest of the range keeps working while the part is on order, and nothing about the ovens underneath is involved. ### What is different about the induction professional range? Underneath, almost everything. There are no burners and no gas: each cooking position is a coil and a power board, and the heat is made in the pan rather than under it. What that changes for a repair is that the failures are electronic and thermal instead of mechanical — a position that cuts out under load, a fan that has to move heat out of the base of a range that is built into cabinetry, an error where a gas machine would simply not light. It also means the diagnosis is done with the machine running, which is why we ask you not to switch it off and leave it before the visit. ### The oven door will not unlock after a self-clean. Give it time first. The lock is a temperature interlock, not a timer: it will not release until the cavity is genuinely cool, and a 48-inch oven that has run a full clean cycle can take a couple of hours to get there with the door shut. If it is cold to the touch and the lock has not released, that is the latch motor or its switch, and it is a common repair rather than an alarming one. What is worth avoiding is forcing it, which turns a latch job into a door job. --- **[Read full article: Ranges](https://jennairmiami.support/appliances/range/)**