--- title: "Your Burner Clicks After It Has Lit. That Is the Range Watching the Flame" description: "Jenn air burner not working: clicking after ignition is flame sensing, not a failure. How to tell it apart from a burner that will not light, one that clicks…" url: "https://jennairmiami.support/blog/a-burner-that-clicks-after-it-has-lit-is-not-broken/" date_modified: "2026-08-25" Category: "Common Problems" --- # Your Burner Clicks After It Has Lit. That Is the Range Watching the Flame ## A Jenn Air burner not working is not the same as one that clicks after it lights A gas burner on any modern range does not just spark until it sees a flame and then forget about it. It keeps watching. If the range decides the flame has gone out while gas is still flowing, it sparks again — immediately, automatically, and as many times as it needs to. This is called flame sensing or re-ignition, and it is the reason a gas cooktop today is a very different appliance from one built forty years ago. The alternative — gas continuing to flow into a kitchen with nothing lit — is precisely what it exists to prevent. So when a burner clicks a second or two after it has lit, or clicks a few times partway through cooking, the range is doing its job. On a JennAir it happens on the sealed brass burners of the professional rangetops and on the gas cooktops alike, and it happens more in a South Florida kitchen than a manual written for a dry one predicts. Common moments for it: - **something boils over** and puts the flame out momentarily;- **a slider or a window is open** and a gust crosses the cooktop — a routine event in a South Florida kitchen;- **the extractor is running hard**, particularly a downdraft, which pulls air across the surface by design;- **a large pan** sits close to the burner and disturbs the flame pattern. None of that is a repair. Knowing it is normal is the point of this section, because once it stops worrying you, the complaints that do matter become easy to separate. ## Four Different Problems Wearing One Complaint "The burner will not light" arrives as a single sentence and covers four unrelated situations. They have different causes, different costs, and different amounts of owner-fixable in them. ### 1. It sparks and never lights — one burner only This is the common one, and it is usually free to fix. **Take the cap off and look.** The cap is the removable disc on top of the burner. Underneath it is the burner head with a ring of small ports, and beside it the igniter. Three things to check: - **The cap is seated properly.** A cap that sits a fraction out of position — easy after cleaning, easy after a knock — spreads gas away from the spark. This is the single most common answer to this complaint.- **The ports are clear.** Boil-overs block them. So does anything cooked on and left. They want cleaning with something that does not enlarge them; a pin is the wrong tool because a port made bigger stays bigger.- **Everything is dry.** After a wash, water sits where you cannot see it and the burner will not behave until it has gone. Reassemble deliberately and try again. If it sparks strongly at a clean, correctly seated burner and still refuses to light, the gas side is the next place to look and that is a service call. ### 2. It clicks continuously with a perfectly good flame The flame is there. You can see it. The range keeps sparking anyway. That is the sensing side reading it wrongly, and the usual reasons are mundane: moisture around the igniter, residue on it, or a lead that has been disturbed. Dry it thoroughly — really dry, not wiped — clean gently around the igniter, and give it a day. If it persists, the igniter or its lead has degraded and needs replacing. It is not dangerous in the meantime, but it is irritating enough that most people do not want to live with it. ### 3. Every burner clicks, or none of them do Stop looking at the burners. They share one **ignition module**, and when that misbehaves it does so across the whole cooktop. There is nothing useful for an owner to do here, which is at least simple. It is a part, and replacing it is ordinary work. ### 4. Fine on high, dies when turned down This is the one people live with longest, and on this equipment it is the one most worth fixing. A stacked or dual burner does not simply reduce the flame when you turn it down. The **simmer stage is a separate gas path** with its own, much smaller ports. Those small ports are the first thing a boil-over blocks and the last thing a quick clean reaches. The result is a burner that behaves impeccably at high heat and cannot hold a low flame — which is the exact capability the cooktop was bought for. Clean the simmer ports carefully. If it still drops out, that is worth a visit. ## What Not to Do **Do not enlarge a port.** A blocked port cleared with something sharp is a port that is now the wrong size, and the flame pattern never comes back properly. **Do not run a burner with a cap off or misaligned.** It puts flame where the appliance was not designed to have it. **Do not ignore a gas smell.** A faint whiff at the moment of ignition is ordinary. A smell that persists, or one present with everything off, means turning the appliance off at its valve, ventilating, and calling the gas utility — not a repair company. **Do not assume clicking means a part has failed.** Most of it is the appliance being careful. ## What to Say When You Call The four cases above want different things on the van, so the useful sentences are: - **Which burners** — one, several, or all of them.- **What it does** — sparks and does not light, lights and keeps clicking, or lights and dies when turned down.- **What you already checked** — cap off and reseated, ports clear, everything dry.- **What changed** — after a clean, after a boil-over, after a storm, or one day for no reason. Those four sentences usually settle whether the answer is an igniter, a module, or the gas side, before anybody leaves the workshop. --- **[Read full article: Your Burner Clicks After It Has Lit. 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