--- title: "Nothing works since the power came back" description: "JennAir nothing works since the power came back — a storm week symptom, and one where a large share of the calls we take are appliances that are perfectly…" url: "https://jennairmiami.support/symptoms/nothing-works-after-a-power-outage/" date_modified: "2026-08-24" Appliance type: "Cooktops and rangetops, Dishwashers, Freezers, Ice machines, Microwaves, Ranges, Refrigerators, Wall ovens, Wine cellars" --- # JennAir nothing works since the power came back ### The fastest diagnosis is the code Switch each appliance fully off at the breaker for one full minute, then back on. That is the documented first step for several control codes on this platform and it is the closest thing these appliances have to a reset button. A quick flick of a switch is not the same thing — the point is to let the control lose its charge completely. ### Most of these are messages A modern appliance notices when the power goes and says so afterwards. PO on a refrigerator, PF on a range, a flashing clock — all three are notices rather than errors, and all three are cleared by acknowledging them. In the week after a storm a large share of the calls we take are exactly this, and we would rather tell you on the phone than on an invoice. ### The minute that saves a visit Switching an appliance fully off at the breaker for a minute is the documented first step for several control codes, and it clears a board that came up confused rather than damaged. It costs nothing. What it does not clear is real damage — and that distinction is exactly what makes it worth trying first, because a condition that survives it is a genuine one. ### Set the clocks The least dramatic advice on this site and one of the most effective. Several cooking appliances will not run a timed function until the time of day has been set, which makes a completely healthy oven look like a dead one. It takes ten seconds per appliance and it is worth doing before anybody is called. A notice rather than an error PO on a refrigerator, PF on a range, a flashing clock. All three mean the power went and want acknowledging. A control that came up confused Caught mid-write during a brownout. A full minute at the breaker clears a great many of these. A clock that was never set Several cooking appliances will not run a timed function until the time of day exists, which makes a healthy oven look dead. A tripped breaker or a GFCI Especially on undercounter appliances and anything near water. Worth walking the panel before calling. Genuine damage Real, and reached after the free things above. A condition that survives a proper power cycle is a real one. Walk the breaker panel Including anything half-tripped, which does not look tripped. And reset any GFCI outlets. One full minute off, per appliance Large appliances are usually on their own circuit; electric cooktops and ovens are on double-pole breakers. Set the clocks On every cooking appliance. It sounds trivial and it revives more of them than anything else on this list. Write down what each display says Before clearing anything. A code that comes straight back after a power cycle is real information. Then book what is left Tell us how long the power was off, which appliances are affected, and what each one shows now. Most of these are messages What it usually means A display showing a code that was not there before An appliance that will not run a timed function Several appliances behaving oddly at once The fastest diagnosis is the code Switch each appliance fully off at the breaker for one full minute, then back on. That is the documented first step for several control codes on this platform and it is the closest thing these appliances have to a reset button. A quick flick of a switch is not the same thing — the point is to let the control lose its charge completely. Most of these are messages A modern appliance notices when the power goes and says so afterwards. PO on a refrigerator, PF on a range, a flashing clock — all three are notices rather than errors, and all three are cleared by acknowledging them. In the week after a storm a large share of the calls we take are exactly this, and we would rather tell you on the phone than on an invoice. The minute that saves a visit Switching an appliance fully off at the breaker for a minute is the documented first step for several control codes, and it clears a board that came up confused rather than damaged. It costs nothing. What it does not clear is real damage — and that distinction is exactly what makes it worth trying first, because a condition that survives it is a genuine one. Set the clocks The least dramatic advice on this site and one of the most effective. Several cooking appliances will not run a timed function until the time of day has been set, which makes a completely healthy oven look like a dead one. It takes ten seconds per appliance and it is worth doing before anybody is called. ### What does PO mean on my refrigerator? A power outage notice. The cabinet is telling you it lost power long enough to get warm inside, and it wants acknowledging before it returns to a normal display. It is a food-safety message rather than a defect, and we see it in bursts after storms. ### Does a surge damage appliance electronics? Electronics can be damaged by electrical events, and Florida sees more lightning than any other state. What we will not tell you is that surges specifically kill this maker's boards, because there is no manufacturer or regulator source for that claim and everyone who makes it is selling surge protection. What we can say is that a control which will not clear after a proper breaker cycle needs looking at. ### Several appliances went at once. Then the event is worth mentioning to an electrician as well as to us. Several appliances behaving strangely after the same outage sometimes points at the supply into the house rather than at the appliances, and it is worth ruling that out before parts are ordered for each of them. ### How long should I leave it off? A full minute, and longer does no harm. Shorter often does not work, because the control needs time to lose its charge before it comes up genuinely fresh rather than exactly as it was. --- **[Read full article: Nothing works since the power came back](https://jennairmiami.support/symptoms/nothing-works-after-a-power-outage/)**